Danish designer Jensen has the distinction of providing me with my first disappointment of Fashion Week 2012. Perhaps I was so pleasantly poisoned by Fam Irvoll and Dans La Vie earlier in the week that some kind of bar had been raised too high; I expected more from the man known for his original and playful designs.
In tribute to Jensen’s friend and famed hat-maker, Thelma Speirs, each model donned ash-blonde wigs in a tousled bob style, and wore a steady mixture of plaid wool trousers, A-line skirts, and loose fitting shell dresses. The headphone accessories hinted at humour and the occasional tomboy-theme was carefully executed, but I couldn’t help but peek at the elephant in the room and tell myself that the whole ‘so conventional it becomes unconventionally interesting’ thing would wash, because it didn’t. I’m all for tongue in cheek, but… just… no.
Considering this was a show where the muse was made clear from the off, it’s surprising just how little character seemed to come to the forefront. Sophisticated, yes, but the occasional items that beckoned attention; the season-friendly colours, floor length fuscia, boyish jeans paired with glitter belts and the bunny ear caps, didn’t deter from the distinctly lacklustre feel that ran throughout.
Words by Ryan Child
KTZ
“Punctuality is overrated” is what I hear someone behind me say as a startlingly large group of people wait to enter the KTZ show at Somerset House. It’s a nice thought but self-hypnosis rarely amounts to much when you’re this cold. People look as though they’re smoking more than they usually would, and caring about it even less. Of course, once the doors are released, everyone shuts up, forgets that they just broke into their last Marlboro Light and takes a seat.
The music makes for a buzzing, almost tribal intro that quite contradicts what is shown; a series of black and white looks over an array of differently-sized tartan, wide-sleeved jackets, kilts and skirts emblazoned with symbolic references, printed trousers and long scarves. One might argue that the size and motif, particularly pertaining to menswear, would point towards a 1970’s Parisian Pimp look crossed with something golf-related, but all at once things go from good to great with the unexpected inclusion of gold sequins and stunning pin-stripe suits for both men and women.
Tonight, the KTZ selection seems more secular than most, and while what is shown provides entertainment rather than an immediate need to purchase, you can’t help but admire the bravery.
Words by Ryan Child
Images via catwalking.com
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