The House of Evolution show was scheduled to begin at four PM. At 4.30pm we were allowed into Freemasons Hall, and at a 4.45pm they finally opened the doors to the runway. There were a lot of confused and annoyed show-goers and the atmosphere seems tense with the collective thought: ‘this better be good.’ At least the front row, where I had very gladly been seated, was reasonably entertaining, with Michelle Collins and that infamous X-factor sociopath Kitty putting in appearances.
When the lights finally went down, a short film of a naked girl frolicking in a forest was played to announce the start of the DELADA show; the art credentials of which I might have appreciated more if the preceding hour hadn’t been quite so stressful. At last, some clothes! The DELADA look was black, with a mix of sheer and slightly furry textures. Highlights included some lovely shirting, coats with sculptural collars and body harnesses – the accessory of the season, without doubt – in delicate chainwork and stingray leather panelling. I particularly loved the attention paid to detail on the reverse of each look; something many designer seem to lazily disregard.
Next up was Zeynep Tosun, whose collection was exciting and captivating from the very first look. Futuristic, but not sci-fi, the collection was wrought in a scintillating mix of textures, from transparent burgundy PVC peplum tops covering starched white cotton shirting, to outerwear in contrast wool and leather. Lagerfeld-alike starched shirt collars were pinned across the neck with spiked silver bars, and fetishistic metal chokers enclosed the neck of each model. Mirror images of organic looking branch, or perhaps lightning-patterns decorated trousers and tops, and accessories came as enormous leather rucksacks and utilitarian pouch belts. I cannot rave about this collection enough; it may yet be my season favourite of the shows I have attended. One to watch, certainly.
The third and final designer in the showcase, Nadine Merabi, was clearly a favourite of the front row who went wild before the first model had even hit the runway. Elegant evening wear was the MO of this show, and the first look displayed a refined, printed pencil skirt, a long sleeve top and a white dinner jacket. Simple draped evening dresses in browns, greys and a metallic mink shade, were held around the neck by silver, crystal ball ended chokers. There was one very dodgy champagne coloured suit with an ill-advised and out of place bandeau top and clown-like flared hip jodhpurs, but the rest of the show brought some lovely fishtailed strapless body-con gowns in varying degrees of embellishment. There was beauty here, for sure, but nothing particularly exciting or fashion forward.
Words by Charlotte Gush
30 SECONDS WITH ZEYNEP TOSUM
Interview by Husniye Guler
I was invited by the tailor of Zeynep Tosun, a young inspiring designer from Turkey, to watch her show which was a part of the House of Evolution catwalk show.
So what inspired you for this collection?
I was inspired by powerful and edgy women. I was also inspired by my Grandma’s house. She had these marble elephants which inspired me to put the teeth on the outfits.
So are you planning to go into having your own jewellery collection?
Not at the moment. My professional area is clothing.
What are your favorite materials to work with?
Chiffon, silk, organic materials, leather and textured fabrics.
What inspired you to create those huge bags?
it came from the idea of the strong woman. I describe it as attractive, detailed and big. A powerful woman needs a huge item and the bag was it.
Why a strong woman?
I like the idea, people should be strong. It’s in my style, reflects my personal life, I wear from my own collections. It’s the mirror of my own personality this is why it makes it easy to create. Some designers fail to do this.
What does the future hold for you?
I’m thinking to open my own store in New York and have my own independent show.