LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION MA_12 SHOW – POEMTRY

Words by Husniye Guler

The exquisite Raphael Gallery at the Victoria & Albert Museum held a catwalk show; 23 talented MA Fashion Design Technology graduates from the renowned London College of Fashion showcased their prodigious designs to an audience and viewers online. The awards were given out by Christopher Raeburn, a young and talented designer who recently won an award from the British Fashion Council for “Best Emerging Talent – Menswear.”

The show started off with Xianfen Gu, whose designs were absolutely stunning. The garments had beautiful designs in an alive red either on the shoulders of jackets or alongside the front. The silhouettes of the garments were lengthy showing off the tall, slim figures of the models.

XIANFEN GU

In comparison to Xianfen Gu, Yao Zhang’s outfits also had red on them however, Zhang’s Stains and Scars collection was made from natural materials with splattered faux blood stains on them. The shoulders of the shirts were torn and the models looked like they’d just come out of a war zone. It was interesting to see what the next outfit looked like but it wasn’t a personal favourite of mine.

YAO ZHANG

Tina Elizabeth Reiter was next to show her work and congratulations to her as she won the award at the end of the night for her ingenious menswear range. Her designs included skirts and polka dots for men which were quite feminine yet it looked dandy and masculine as the waistcoats and blazers balanced out the outfits. Could the future bring feminine chic to men’s fashion? We’ll just have to see!

TINA ELIZABETH REITER

Another menswear designer who really stood out for me was Birmingham’s Joseph Turvey. His garments had his very own illustrations on them which were put together with bright shorts and jackets. Turvey has been previously inspired by names like Givenchy and Christopher Shannon, who has recently shown a series of casual sportswear items which reflected onto Turvey’s designs. Sportswear is identified to be one of S/S 2013’s trends so, guys, you know what to look out for from now.

JOSEPH TURVEY

Hana Cha won the womenswear award at the end of the night. The Korean designer used three tones in some of her garments and added metallic detail. She tried to express the modern perception of upper class and lower class through her designs. Cha used little thin tassles at the end of her dresses opposing to the big shouldered capes. There was one outfit in particular which communicated her idea of the hierarchy, the dress which had a collar on just one side of it.

HANA CHA

One of the most phenomenal collections was the KORLEKIE A/W12 by Beatrice Newman. I was so taken by her dresses that I completely forgot to take down notes. The intricate details on the dresses were fascinating, and each and every one of them was heavily embellished. She reminded me of a young Alexander McQueen but with her own traditional style. There were elements of the underwater world as dresses had green metallic material underneath netting and the embellishments appeared to be seaweed on the models.

BEATRICE NEWMAN

Overall, the show was a complete success as the graduates showcased unique and wonderful pieces. The menswear designer Matteo Molinari won Collection of the Year Award and floored everyone with his crocheted tailoring.

We wish all the graduates good luck for the future and cannot wait to see what they will come up with next!

clockwise

1. Jacket – Vintage/Trousers – Vivienne Westwood/Chain – Ebay

2. Top – H&M/Skirt – Motel/Jacket – Vintage/Scarf – Urban Outtfitters

3. Boob Tube – Matalan/Skirt – Vintage/Waistcoat – Forgotten Vintage/Belt – H&M/Necklace – Topshop

Words by Ryan Child

DR. MARTENS SS12 Launch

I wore black Dr. Martens boots to school and got put in ICE. ICE was school-speak for Isolation. Sat at a table next to a teacher’s office, one knee up and running a finger over the yellow stitching, bored and trying to read old graffiti on the wall in front of me; something like Rob is a homo, all a bit blurry.

Tonight, Little Portland Street’s Exposure Gallery played host to the Dr. Marten SS12 Launch, the theme: First Love. With an exclusive viewing of the new short film (aptly titled), FIRST LOVE, starring Agyness Deyn and Ash Stymest, as well as announcing the winner of a photographic competition focused on what first love really means, the L word (not that one), really was all around.

Yes, but the SHOES. Brightly coloured or dark, yellow stitching or not, it’s the inexhaustible interest and devotion to a truly tireless brand that make Dr Martens such a perfect companion to tonight’s festivities. Music comes from Exlovers, who play a wistful set, backed by shelves of DM classics that look like crayons in a box. Tiny burgers and hotdogs are munched on while the captions by each competition-entry are read/understood/laughed at. It all comes down to experience, I guess. I’m told that I can put my beer on a table, next to the shoes, and that “it’s all in-keeping with the aesthetics”. I do that and remember bumping the rubber soles together, off each other, and start thinking about buying a new pair.

Maybe I’m in love? SLAP!DRINKANDPULLYOURSELFTOGETHERMAN!!!

WORDS FROM THE DIRECTOR, KEVIN MASON:

The ideas for this video shoot came from a few places, but mainly the 80′s styling (soundtrack etc) of Drive, the Ryan Gosling film as well as JG Ballards Crash, or at least David Cronenburg’s film version. I also watched Vanishing Point a few times, and took something from the idea that the lost ‘hero’ Kowalwski just drives, and does so because he is stuck in mental limbo – this became the reference for smashing the windsrceen etc before the shoot. A lot of my video work/fashion stories take a strong influence from cinema.

I was really keen to try and get the fetish quality of materials across, in key scene (for me) of the film Crash Rosanna Arquette gets her leg brace stuck in the leather of a super expensive car in the showroom and it tears the leather. This mix of hard polished metal and leather was the styling brief that I gave to Heather who came back with some amazing jewellery pieces, like the knuckle duster rings, which she paired up with beautiful leather wear. We even managed to squeeze in an original antique Victorian leg brace in the final shots. I am intrigued by the mix of man and machine, and how people feel a car is part of them.

Sam Hiscox and I worked on our direction to the model that everything had to be slow, deliberate and almost automated with movements. Each gear change should be punishing, really pushing hard, so we could emphasis the model and the car being one. The make up direction was fairly simple, with an emphasis on really contouring the face first and then adding a slight metallic shimmer to the cheekbone as we progressed.

With the edit we wanted to recreate the feel of an overwatched, over recorded VHS tape, and reflect this in the font as well. Sam produced a beautiful edit that shimmers and glitches and re-enforces the feeling of machines and mechanisation. The lighting direction came from wanting to make a sensual, neon, seductive feel. I then gave an industrial feel brief to the two people that produced a beautiful score for us.

Director: Kevin Mason

Camera/Editor: Sam Hiscox

Model: Mimi at Profile Model Management

Styling: Heather Falconer

Hair: Stylist Kalvyn Celic

Stylist’s Assistant: Sophie Yates

Assistant/Lighting Tech: Leon Foggit
Second Assistant: Matt Martin
Set Construction/Car Modification: Matthew Ring
Set Dressing: Alex Thirlwell

Original Score: THEO CELANO and ELIAS MOUKARZEL

Designers: AND_I, SVETA SOTNIKOVA, MARIA PIANA, ATSUKO KUDO, BJORG, DANS LA VIE, BERNARD CHANDRAN, MISSTA

Firstly and in my eyes most importantly, do you have a denim jacket? No, why not?? You have no excuses with all sorts including coloured/ patchwork and customised denim hitting down already. If you are going to rock the denim shirt look this summer then I would opt for a short sleeve and brave it over a rudeboy net vest. Brap Braaap.

Pattern will be finding its way into your shirts and shorts but don’t fret, I promise there will be a print for everyone come spring. Whether you are full swinging for the Hawaiian movement or prefer a more subtle approach, I recommend you clash it up and wear prints together.

You may remember it like the back seat of your first car (dirty buggers) but sadly it’s that time already, the nineties are now considered retro enough to be cool. Yes, the loud prints and appalling haircuts are back. The girls are already jumping feet first into Grunge but the boys need to put their faith back into Jazzy Jeff for this one with retro brights and logo sweatshirts… Thank god for VIVA with those Fresh Prince reruns. Be heroic with some lightwash denim (think ‘This Is England’ rather than ‘Saved by the Bell’ though).

Ditch the dishwater colours because they are as bland as a spam sandwich, twenty twelve is the year men embrace colour. Coloured chinos and pop tees are back on the agenda with brighter shades including oranges and reds. If this is a step too far then the best way to introduce colour into your wardrobe is through these fun loving soles. Sitting on the fence between smart and casual they are perfect for the GQ gentleman and you will be able to find them everywhere. Expect to see them worn with a turned up trouser and bare ankles Ooooeerrrr.

Mix it up and break the rules. What rules? There are no rules anymore!! A smart and casual mash up is perfect for the modern day man. We saw a lot jogging bottoms on the catwalks so brave the streets and shake of that chav stereotype by wearing grey jogging shorts with a wicked shirt – FIT!

Talking of grey marl – the knitted sweater remains as the wardrobe security blanket. I love it oversized and ultra light, plus every guy can pull a grey sweater off!!

The wax jacket is still clinging on for dear life but there may be room for a new contender – the bomber! No, we aren’t talking terrorists so get out from under the table. This is such a good summer jacket and available in a range of fabrics, so if you buy one item this year then invest in that.

There you have it. Only one thing left to do… pick out that perfect pair of Speedos…

Words by Sara Wilson

If there are two things you need to remember then it’s Pastels and Print. Expect to be bowled over by the extraordinary as both will be invading your social space over the next few months. When I say pastels, I mean it! Sugary sweet and cutesy clean, these pastel shades will be hitting down in the shops early on and sticking around. Jill Stewart and Preen were feeling fresh for Spring Summer 12, leading the way amidst an array of pastel loving catwalk collections. For those who can’t stomach all the shades of Mrs Kibble’s sweet shop then I recommend you put all your faith into lilac – easy to wear and suits most skin tones. Or, even better, be a shade braver with mint!!

Pretty pastels are not where it ends for the preacher daughter look. Louis Vuitton’s dainty doily approach is the catwalk of the season as daisy cut lace and applique will be getting us in the mood for spring. Whether it be 60s vibes or that 50s All American Girl, you can guarantee Mary’s garden growing everywhere with daisies as soon as the blossom blooms.

The 50s American housewife will be hanging around the streets of the Noughties thanks to catwalks like Marni and Prada. Cinched in waists pay tribute to the hour glass figure, as we celebrate the female form in all its glory. Bra tops and fuller skirts pave the way for our midriff loving girls, however if you also have great thighs then invest in some high waisted knicker shorts too – awesome summer look! Better put that new gym membership to good use and start doing those crunches!

Some of us can’t stick the good girl image and are rotten to the core. The grunge girls are back with a vengeance, dirtying up their dip dye pastels and revitalising the all important acid wash. Utility jackets in green and Khaki’s will be a must have for this look so get them in early!

Thank god for DIY, as I urge you to get out the old denims and start studding. And remember this dear reader, less is NEVER more!! Dig up that ‘vintage’ Pearl Jam album you stowed away and break out the bleach because if Maggie Thatcher has taught us anything, it is that when recession hits its time to get more involved with your wardrobe. Go wild!

It’s not only 90s grunge that is back but everything ‘bad’ about that era will be finding its way back to that special place in your heart. Sportswear for the average sofa spud is what I am talking about. Hello retro prints, crop tops and drawstring overload!!

Expect to see some neon flashes and serious racer detailing – racer back, racing stripe, racer front – it’s all about cutting out that unwanted fabric. Call it Olympic fever but I particularly love this trend as it lets me eat as much as possible whilst reigniting my love for high tops. Even Isabel Marant is crazing the heel lovers with these high tops…

It would be impossible to do a SS12 round up without talking about print. Prints will be exploding into your daily life like a kitsch science project. Expect it on all things imaginable. There will be no escape with this being a new age for the confident woman ready to don a full head to toe print. Kick back with Sebastian the crab for some ‘Under the Sea’ fun seen at Versace, Chanel and Holly Fulton. Black based florals will be helping the grunge girls get in touch with their feminine side as we revisit Chloe Sevigny’s 90s style.

Finally, you guessed it… Tribal is back on our high street. Batik prints and Desert trek utility will be big on the agenda but add some metallics to make it fresh. Mix up the casual with some smart pieces as it’s all about breaking the norm. If you can’t handle another season of tribal then just focus on the accessories as this is where ethnic is at its best. Burberry had my favourite take on this trend with some costume-esque beading …

Good luck and may the force be with you!

Words by Sara Wilson

Grab that slingshot and a punt and you’re ready to go.

Along with the AW11 collection, a variety of military influenced pieces, standout knitwear and the classic FLY53 graphic tees, there will be a number of one-off pieces for the FLY53 connoisseurs to get their hands on.

Now open and running until the end of January 2012, the FLY53 pop up store promises to be a shopping experience you’re not going to forget in a hurry.

22 Peter Street, Soho, London, W1F 0AG

News broke yesterday that Rihanna is to launch a collection for Armani, due to hit stores by the end of November. The collection will feature classic Rihanna staples, including lacy lingerie, denim and leather as well as t-shirts bearing the face of the women herself and the signature Armani eagle.

Rumour has it that Tom Ford will be the next major designer to hit H&M stores…excited? According to Business Week, the store is “keen to follow up its Versace collection with a range designed by Tom Ford.” We already know that David Beckham’s underwear range is due to hit H&M shelves by Valentines Day of 2012, but a Tom Ford collaboration could see a boom of male shoppers acting as crazy as we did when Versace hit the stores.

An unlikely name to be associated with high street collaborations, Isabel Marant has teamed up with GAP to design a t-shirt, helping raise money for AIDS victims and to support awareness of the disease. The slouchy, tie-dye effect t-shirts went on sale last week and can be yours for around £16.00.

Words by Natalie Miller

It looks like Clarks are pulling it out of the bag. There are a quartet of limited edition desert boots which have been reworked in a salute to British music. ‘Rock Royalty’ is a quartet of limited edition Desert Boots reworked in a salute to four of music’s greatest moments; from the magical mystery of psychadelia to the shimmering swagger of glam, the three chord trash of punk to the rocksteady beat of rudeboys and girls. There’s the Union Jack, the chequerboarded Special, the crystal embellished Glamrock and this bad-boy below, The Hainsworth, using the fabrics that are found everywhere from piano makers to Buckingham Palace.

There’s something about workwear that makes just about any man look good, and the devil is in the details with Albam Clothing. The focus on fabric and construction rather than on a passing fashion diktat is just pure genius. Albam has opened up a new store in Monmouth Street in Seven Dials or you could visit their shops in Soho, Spitalfields or Islington.

If you’re looking for an umbrella for these coming dismal months that has a touch of class and originality then you’re looking for an Archer Adams Umbrella as they have THE coolest range of umbrellas which are all hand crafted. The designs include a lions head, snake and Disorder’s personal favorite, the skull. To grab yourself one of these you’ll have to get down to Liberty’s.

Models Own have recently launched a new range of nail polishes called BEETLE JUICE. Each bottle contains four pearlescent colours mixed into one gleaming shade for an optimum high finish. Inspired by the beautiful wings of a beetle, this collection mimics the complex colour-shifting with flashes of vivid tones and ethereal hues giving a shimmering duo chrome finish and at £5 a pop what more could you ask for? Might have to stock up on these for Christmas presents.

Last week were sent a box that rattled ominously. Opening it revealed a box full of dirt and the new Lynx fragrance which is called The Final Edition, based on the Mayan calender that says we all die in 2012. Anyway we sprayed it on our office boy and he smelt better than he used to so that must mean it works. Lynx Final Edition only costs £2.54.

words by Jade Stavri